16 December 2007
Empress's House, Ruins, Return to Shanghai
Again, we rose at six in the morning. This time we were not late for breakfast, instead breakfast was late for us. When we arrived in the dining hall we found that there was no food. This was only mildly disappointing, as the food had been rather bland anyway. I ate about five ... things, the closest description of which would be cupcakes. They weren't really cupcakes though, they had some sort of cream coloured paste on top, and the cake part had a funny texture. Of the four items available however, they were the best. I chased them down with a cup of coffee, and sat waiting for the others to be ready to go.
After waiting for about ten minutes, I saw that the tour guide had come down. She was much more irritated over the lack of food than I, and proceeded to berate the hotel staff quite severely. I was pleased that she was displaying such behaviour, as one would hope that a tour guide, responsible for the safety and well-being of the group, would get annoyed over an unplanned lack of breakfast. She paced back and forth, nearly shouting at the staff. Of the negative adjectives I know, she called them lazy and stupid. I would bet money that she used others, but I don't know them. The staff must have been lazy and/or stupid, as they didn't really quicken their activities after their telling-off, which served only to annoy the guide more. Eventually more breakfast was brought out, but I didn't eat any, as food after coffee isn't my scene.
When the name-calling was finished with, we boarded the bus. First stop was the site of the Olympic Games. Generally the site was unimpressive, as it is a simple (albeit large) flat area of brown dirt. The two main attractions were the stadium and the swimming pool. The stadium is nice because of its architectural style. The impression they were going for is a large bird's nest. I don't know if I can imagine a bird large and strong enough to fly with the girders required to construct this nest, but the stadium looks nice nonetheless. The indoor swimming pool will be absolutely fantastic, as it has been designed to react to projected light, with transparent construction materials. This means that the whole building will light up, and could have videos or colours or ... whatever projected onto it.


When we were finished with the ruins we were driven to the railway station, where we waited for the train. When the train arrived, we boarded it.
And thus my Bejing trip was concluded.
Jing Mountain, Greedy Leader, Enamel Factory, Temple, Wangfujian Road
I stayed up too late last night, and as a result I found it difficult to get up at six this morning. When I finally got up, I found that I was late for breakfast. We grabbed some snacks and hurried to the bus, where we stealthily ate as we were driven to our first destination. Our first stop was Jing Mountain, which is more like a hill than a mountain, but as the Emperor used it for some things, and hill is not an imperial-sounding title, it was called a mountain. In any case, it was still high enough that one had a nice view of the Forbidden City from the top. Before we climbed up though, we were led around the surrounding area. The hill is artificial - the material making up the hill came from the moats surrounding the Forbidden City. Another name is "Coal Hill"
The first thing we looked at was a very old tree that had a younger tree growing inside it. I was remarkable enough to warrant one photo. Next we were led into a small room that had some photos on the wall. It also had an old map of the Forbidden City, which was the only interesting thing in the room. After about two minutes, a woman came into the room and began droning on about Feng Shui. Honestly, she must have talked for over an hour. I'm sure it would have been very interesting, but as I could only understand every fourth word or so, I didn't find it to be so. I managed to politely stand still for about forty minutes, but couldn't help fidgeting for the final twenty. When she finally stopped talking we were led into an adjoining room. I was unsurprised to find that it was a shop. She talked about how great their goods were for some time, then allowed us to browse. Yvonne bought a nice jade pendant for herself, and one for her Father. As seems to be the tradition, we were left in the shop for quite some time. Yvonne tells me that the guides get a small cut of whatever the guests buy. Fair enough, the guide was very good at her job.

The top was much better, and I took a few photos of the Forbidden City. It really is vast.
When we had had our fill of viewing the Palace through the eternal "fog", we went to some place nearby and were taken on a short bicycle tour. The bikes could carry three people, the driver and two passengers. Our driver was very nice, so we gave him 10元. We first went to the nearby river, which was frozen solid. The guide talked about something for awhile, then we took photos. During the photo time he asked me if I understood him. I said that I did if he spoke slowly, and he was impressed. He told me that the river is called a sea because the Emperor is a dragon, and dragons need to go to the sea from time to time. I nodded and said "Ahh." Surprising how little talking one has to do to keep someone thinking one is interested. After speaking with me for a little longer he announced that it was time to move on. Next stop was an example of what houses were like 100-200 years ago. Rather than a house it was actually a series of one-roomed buildings surrounding a courtyard. In the first building we were given tea, which was good because it was about -2°C. The guide talked for awhile, then we were allowed to look in the other buildings. If one desired, one is able to stay in either of the bedrooms, for a price of course. They looked comfortable enough, with heaters in each room and a TV in the master bedroom. My favourite part was the handles on the entrance gates. There was no shop, which was odd.

Next we went to the largest and most well known enamel factory in China, if not the world. Believe it or not, the factory produces enameled things. Vases, bowls, balls, keyrings and more. We were guided around the building, and in some areas were able to see people working on new pieces. The work appeared tedious and repetitive, but the workers were all chatting and working happily. To produce one of the beautiful items that they sell, a worker would first cast a bronze "raw" version, which would be sanded and prepared for enameling. The enameling was done by covering the item in thin strips of metal, defining areas that would be different colours, or simply adding texture. The next step is adding colour, which seems to be in the form of some kind of paste. Then (I imagine, we didn't see anymore of the process) the items were fired. The end result was very nice, and at the end of the tour we were treated to a half an hour "milling about" session in the factory's shop.
After having lunch we were driven to the Emperor's Temple, the place he would go to pray for whatever it is Emperors prayed for - probably not another bedroom, that's for sure. Its English name is "Temple of Heaven". I don't know exactly how big it is, because Wikipedia is blocked in China and I can't be bothered loading my proxy program, but I do know that my feet were sore after walking its length. We started at the base (bottom of picture) and began walking. First there is the ticket office, which is mandatory, followed by the first of many gates. Each gate building actually has three gates, the central gate was for the Emperor of Heaven, the left for the Emperor, and the right for the court officials - so far as I remember. The central gate was closed. Past the first gate there is a large stone platform set in a large square. It is clearly visible in the picture The platform's layout has some special meaning, but my Chinese isn't good enough to know it. Beyond this there is another gate, and through this gate one comes to a circular area. This area is well known because one can stand on one side of the gate, face away from the gate and speak, and another person standing on the other side of the gate can hear. Echoes travel well. Also, there are three places near the middle where echos are also especially good. Three claps at the one closest to the entrance, then up one paving stone for two claps, up one more for one final clap. No one told me why three, two, one, but they did say that my claps were the best. I told them it was because I have had a lot of practice, patting dogs especially hard, but they didn't understand because I spoke English. Private joke.
Also in the echoes area were two buildings. The one on the right was for the Emperor to change clothes, and I forget the purpose of the other two - Google is your friend here. Through another gate, only to see yet another a short distance ahead. Through this gate was the long road towards the final building. It was really a long road, I'd guess at least a kilometer. For awhile I hummed the "Star Wars" theme, but I couldn't keep it up the whole way. The other people in the tour group enjoyed what little they got though, I'm sure.
The final building was quite impressive, very big. We wandered around it and were able to look inside. I took a photo, but was later told to delete it by Yvonne. One cannot be given everything for free, you see - if you want to see it all you've got to come along. After tiring of the large building, I took some photos of crows flying in the distance. I really like crows, as I imagine you know already. Their call is the best of any bird, and they are all black. When it was time to leave, we left.

Food eaten and curiosity satisfied, we went and bought a Peking Duck. We then returned to the bus and were driven back to the hotel. The Peking Duck was very big, and tasty. We couldn't eat it all and decided to save the rest for the train ride to Shanghai. As there was no refridgerator in the hotel room, I put the duck in a few plastic bags, tied some bags to the bag containing the duck, and tied it so the duck hung outside the window. This ensured that the duck did not go rotten, as the temperature outside was about -2°C. Tomorrow we have a few more things to see, then we will take the overnight train again to Shanghai.
Wax Museum, Tomb, Jade Carvers, Great Wall
Today we had to get up at six-thirty. Had breakfast at the hotel, which was bland. Got on the bus and slept while we drove to the Ming Dynasty Museum. It was filled with life-sized models of historical figures, involved in various activities. We weren't allowed to take photos. I think the figures were made of wax. The museum was interesting enough. Most of the sets were of Emperors involved in daily tasks, like torturing evil ministers, or "cavorting with concubines", but some were more interesting, being displays of battle scenes. My personal favourite was the display of an Emperor's cousin being roasted alive in a 300 lb pot. The cousin could lift the pot, a display of strength that scared the Emperor enough to have him killed. Great stuff.
After another ride on the bus, we arrived at the place where Emperors were buried. Like all imperial areas, it was very big. It hadn't snowed for weeks, but there was still snow in places that were shaded from the sun for most of the day. I kicked the dirty snow around while the guide went and bought tickets. When the guide returned, she talked for about 5 minutes about the temple, I guess - too fast for me to understand. After her speech we entered the temple grounds, and were treated to another speech. This time there wasn't any snow about for me to kick, so I took some photos. Most of the photos I took were awful though, so I deleted them. Her second speech over, we entered the big building in the center of the courtyard. It was filled with relics that had been dug up from the tombs. I took photos of the more interesting ones. It seems the Emperors were fond of elaborate hats, one for every occasion. Also important were jade belts. Of course the leather had long rotted away, leaving only the jade. There was a sword as well, which was obviously my favourite. In the center of the building there was a bronze statue of an old man, I guess an Emperor. After being led around the items on display, and being told about them in lightening fast Mandarin, it was time to go outside again. I was excited, as outside is where one finds dirty snow - fun to kick.
We walked to the other side of the building, and climbed up some stairs. The view from the top was nice, and I took some photos of it while the guide talked some more.
Before arriving at the Great Wall, we visited a jade store/ place where Jade is carved. We were led through an area with various intricate carvings on display, and the woman assigned to our tour group talked incessantly. I looked at the rocks and marveled at the price tags. When she had finished talking about that room, we were led into a smaller room with no windows. The guide moved to the lectern and proceeded to lecture us on the differences between fake, low quality and high quality jade. The one part of her presentation that I enjoyed was when she used some high quality jade to scratch some glass. When the show was over, we were led past a room where people were working on some carvings. My Dad carves Jade, so it was pretty 'samey' for me. I did note that they lacked the plethora of machines that Dad has in his warehouse - maybe they were out the back. Finally we were led to the main area, a very large room filled with glass display cases. We walked around for about half an hour before becoming bored, then milled about in a group, making it rather obvious that we weren't going to buy anything. After milling about for another half an hour, we had lunch at a nearby restaurant.
Back to the bus, to the Great Wall this time. I bought two bottles of Coke after arriving at the car park. The shop owner didn't understand that I wanted two bottles, so I repeated myself until his friend realised and told him. The Coke was really expensive, being 10元 per bottle, or $2.50. Funny how "really expensive" is still not as much as the same bottles would cost in New Zealand - $3.90. I savoured the delicious taste as I wandered up to the rest of the group, who were huddled around the guide listening to another blazing introduction to the area.
Just beyond the entrance there were a series of reeking pits in the ground, about 6 meters in diameter and 5 deep. During a team meeting in the past, management obviously thought that the Great Wall itself didn't pull enough tourists, and the site needed something else. That something else, obviously the result of a drunken brainstorming evening, was a series of stinking pits filled with bears. The pits were like bear heaven, solid concrete floors and walls, rusty metal frames to climb about on. The bears all looked very happy, none of them seemed insane. When tired of swaying back and forth, or just hungry, the bears would climb the frames and perform various unnatural movements, which they presumably learned would encourage people to throw food at them. Saucers of chopped apple were placed all around the pits, and the handlers would throw a piece or two to the bears when tourists approached. One of the men in our group threw a piece, and was told to pay 5元 by the handler. The man argued that this was too high a price for a tiny piece of apple, and the handler said that the 5元 would allow him to throw the whole saucerful. The man said he didn't want to do that, he'd only wanted to throw one piece, as he thought it was free - no price tag! He argued with the handler for a time, and was eventually allowed to pay only 3元. The handler said he could throw some more apple pieces to the bears if he wished, but the man had lost interest by this time, and the guide had arrived.
We lined up at the entrance to where I thought we would begin our long walk to the wall, which was on the top of the hills high above us. I was surprised to see a loop track with small carts running along it. It turned out we were to ride these to the top of the hill, and wander along the wall from there. The ride up was fairly tame, the majority of the track went through a tunnel that had coloured neon lights along its roof. After the tunnel the track ran along the side of the hill, which gave us some nice views. I didn't take any photos though, because the vibrations prevented clarity.
After arriving at the top, we were given about an hour to walk along the wall. Yvonne and I headed to the far end, as it is the highest. The Great Wall is very big, as the name implies, and is also very long - as the Chinese name "Long Wall" tells us. Its historical purpose was to keep the barbarian hordes from smashing the Emperor's pretty things, but now, along with the Stinking Bear pits, it is a leading tourist attraction. It is also one of the few tourist attractions that provides the visiting tourist with quite a workout. I wanted to go quickly, Yvonne wanted to go slowly. This this was remedied by my gripping Yvonne's hand and dragging her along. I am sure she appreciated the help.
Assaulting a force that was defending from such a position would have been rather daunting, and if using the tools of the time doomed to failure. Nothing a smart bomb couldn't handle though. Unfortunately I didn't have an array of high-tech weaponry, so I contented myself with merely looking around.
There is a section of the wall that has obviously fallen apart, and we had to take a path around it to reach the separated section. The area around the breach is very steep. When I asked Yvonne why they haven't fixed it yet, she said that the ancient people were better at construction, it can't be fixed now. I think that it hasn't been fixed because a new section wouldn't fit the current theme: "old".
Once we reached the top (by no means the end of the wall - the limit beyond which tourists are not allowed to go) we stood around for awhile and enjoyed the icy wind.
When we began to get cold, we decided to start walking back to the cart station. We had walked up so fast, that we passed the others in our tour group, who were still walking up. The wall is very steep in some places, and stairs (where there are stairs - a lot of it is just really steep ramps) were very uneven. I don't know how the messengers managed to successfully climb some of the areas during winter, when the wall would be covered in snow and ice! There were a lot of people there that day, and it was necessary for me to push them out of the way when walking through some of the more narrow areas. The tourists were mostly Chinese, with a lot of Koreans and Americans as well. While we were having a short rest, an old Korean lady shoved Yvonne out of the way. Yvonne wouldn't let me punish her, so she got away with it. My shoving is the nice, friendly kind, and I only do it if I really need to. The Korean woman had heaps of room, maybe walking around people is offensive in Korea. Hope Yvonne isn't with me if I see her again.
The cart ride down was much more entertaining, as we went quite fast. I noticed a lot of sharp metal sticking out of the ground, which would have ripped a rather large hole in me. Luckily the tied-on car seat belt didn't break, and I arrived at the bottom safely.
On the way back to the bus, passing the Stinking Bear Pits, I overhead a tourist asking the bear handler how old a particular bear was. The handler obviously didn't speak English, as his only reply was "五块元", or "$5". The tourist just kept asking though, obviously confused about which country he was in. I doubt a Chinese tourist in his country would get special treatment, either. I considered helping him by asking the handler myself, but I didn't because learning the small amount of Chinese I know took me two years, damned if I'm going to use to help someone else!
Travelling to Beijing, People's Hall, Mao's Mausoleum, Tianamen Square, Palace
Shortly after writing the previous entry we left for the train station. The bus ride to the subway station, and the subsequent subway ride were both uneventful. The train station was not as nice as the one from which we travelled to Hangzhou. It wasn't bad though, the other one is newer. We were early, and had to wait for about an hour before being allowed to board the train. Neither of us knew anything about the train that we were to take to Beijing. All we knew was that the trip was going to take twelve hours, and that we would have to sleep on the train. I was a little nervous, as I've seen some travel documentaries featuring long train rides, which didn't look like much fun. I was prepared to not eat or drink until we arrived in Beijing, so that I would be less likely to want to use the toilet on the train, in case it was absolutely filthy.
When we were finally allowed to board the train, we saw that it was absolutely immaculate. It had been recently refurbished, and will be used to ferry people between Shanghai and Beijing during the Olympics, as some events will be held in Shanghai. The toilets were better than those on the plane we took to China. The cabin, while small, had everything we needed, a table, a floor, free slippers and beds. Everything was clean and tidy, and the staff were excellent. Each cabin slept four, and we were surprised to find that the couple who shared our cabin were in the same tour group as us. Like all Chinese people I've met, they were surprised to find that I could understand Chinese, but didn't understand me when I tried to talk. This is really common, and quite irritating. I'll attempt to strike up a conversation by asking a question, like "How did you like the Palace?" The person with whom I am attempting to chat will then say something totally different, like "Please, eat." Often I repeat myself a few times, but the response is usually the same. To be fair, it doesn't happen so much with people under 30 (recently forced to use Mandarin every day at school), or Beijing natives. I think Shanghainese are so accustomed to speaking their dialect that they find my stumbling Mandarin (Beijing origin) impossible to understand. Regardless of the reason, it is extremely frustrating.
Digression over - back to the train. I watched Yvonne play Zelda on the NDS for awhile, then we went to sleep. It took ages for me to get to sleep because of the noise, but the experience was enjoyable. I got up during the night to use the facilities, and saw that each carriage had a staff member slumped in a chair in the corridor sleeping. I do not envy them. Woke up again at six, watched the scenery fly past through the window (Yvonne claims the train travelled at 200 km/h+, I'll check that when I get the internet again), but only saw a little snow. Train stops, we get off and find the tour guide, who is frozen solid outside the station.
We waited for the rest of the group to assemble, then went to the hotel. Hotel is nice, slightly better than the one we stayed in during our Hangzhou visit.
After a very short stop, we went on our first sight-seeing trip. First stop was the People's Hall, which would be better name: The Important People's Incredibly Massive and Opulent Hall of Splendor. Even that doesn't do it justice. It is GIGANTIC. When a new Premier comes into power, a reception "room," itself the size of a small theater , is created, decorated according to the new Premier's native province. That we saw there was a reception room for Guangdong, Hunan, Beijing, Shanghai and Sichuan. They were all magnificent. The Important People's Incredibly Massive and Opulent Hall of Splendor is also home to the biggest banquet hall I have ever seen (which is not saying much), complete with world-class stage and equipment. The place was truly massive, hard to believe even when standing inside it.
Next, we crossed the road and viewed Chairman Mao's corpse. The mausoleum itself is an impressive structure, and guarded by a large number of armed soldiers and unarmed policemen. Entry to the mausoleum is free, but the line was long. After waiting for about half an hour we were allowed to silently file past the leader's coffin, which has a glass cover, which enabled us to see his face. There were two armed soldiers standing beside his coffin, one at each door, and one patrolling the area. In addition there were about three civilians ensuring we didn't stray to near to the coffin. Why don't the soldiers do that? This task is below them, the only time they touch civilians is when they hug their families, and even then only in private. They were armed with handguns, sorry to say, no pictures of wonderful assault rifles. Well, no pictures of real assault rifles, I did take some photos of the statues outside the mausoleum, some of the figures were holding AK-47s.
The mausoleum is situated on the edge of Tianamen Square, and we were allowed some time to wander about before lunch. There isn't much to say about the square, other than it is vast, has history that China doesn't like, and there is a memorial for all of the Chinese (good) who were killed by the Japanese (bad). Don't see many Japanese in China.
Lunch was eaten in the palace restaurant, which is alright, nothing special. As the guide said: "Don't expect the service to be as good as in privately owned restaurants, this is owned by the government." She is a good guide.
After lunch we walked around the palace, for hours. As I think I ran out of superlatives describing the Important People's Incredibly Massive and Opulent Hall of Splendor, all I can say about the size of the Palace and its grounds is: the palace and its grounds are much, much bigger than the Important People's Incredibly Massive and Opulent Hall of Splendor, only more old. 580 years old, to be precise. My feet are very sore from walking around the palace. It is so big that the buildings just run together in my mind, and I have terrible difficulty trying to construct any sort of map of it in my mind. Oh, Beijing has crows, which are my favourite bird. They are jet black, perch on rooftops and "crow" in their own unique and sinister manner. They are also very intelligent. It has been shown that they can count, and determine different humans from one another. One study showed that if a crow has a piece of food that it wants to hide, and said crow knows that it is possible that another crow could be watching it, it will wander around, waiting until it thinks the other crow won't be watching before hiding the food. Then it will wander around some more, to appear as if it still has the food. Also, they can problem solve, using sticks to reach otherwise inaccessable areas to get food. Lastly, it has been shown that crows can reason, with a series of experiments where a crow is placed on a perch that has a piece of string fixed to it, with an item of food tied to the end of the string. The birds will try (unsuccessfully) to fly at the food, then stand on the perch for awhile. They birds will then get the food by pulling up the string. This experiment was repeated by placing the crow in more and more complex environments. Go google it. Uh... The palace was nice, look at the pictures.
The final destination (crap movie) was an acrobatics show, which was extremely good. They jumped and flipped about like... acrobats. Apparently the performers are all gymnasts who failed to win medals. So really instead of being called the "Acrobatics Macrocosm," it should be "Gymnast's Graveyard". Has a nice ring to it. The show ran for about an hour. The pictures describe it better than I can textually, so go and have a look at them.
Tomorrow the Great Wall.
Off to Beijing
I haven't written any blog entries for awhile, mainly because I have been busy making the Waikato Golden Key's website. I have some new website creation plugins for the software I have been using, Rapidweaver. The plugins allow me to do much more, allowing the creation of very pretty websites.
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A few days ago we went into town to meet Yvonne's friend and her friend's boyfriend. They were very nice, her friend's English was pretty good. After we met up the boyfriend and I were told to follow them around, while they looked at makeup. During this time, I attempted conversation with the boyfriend, in Mandarin. It was pretty slow and painful. He eventually tired of standing idly in the makeup store "taking" with me, and suggested we get a drink of juice from the store opposite. He gave me the menu and told me to choose something, and I chose "火龙果风菠萝", or "Fire Dragon Pineapple". I chose it because the name sounded interesting. It turned out that "Fire Dragon" is actually "Fire Dragon Fruit", or Pitaya, which I have never heard of. I thought the drink would be spicy or hot in some other sense, but it was sour. I drank it anyway.
Hours later Yvonne and her friend finished looking at makeup, or ran out of money. I don't know which. We then went to get dinner, which tasted good. We ordered "Stinky Tofu", and it was really stinky, like Gouda.
On the way home we went back to the same store, because Yvonne wanted to look around again. In the store I found various New Zealand products. Honey and Lanolin oil. The honey was ludicrously expensive, the most costly example being 860元 for 500mL. That is around $160. This is the same honey one can buy from Pak 'n' Save, for around $5-10. Next time I'll take some photos as proof.
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Some time before meeting Yvonne's friend I devised a method by which one can level up a Super Paper Mario character without actually playing. I used a rubber band to attach a nutcracker to the wiimote in such a way that the required button is continually pressed. It works well. I plan to beat the Flopside Pit of 100 Trials sometime, if I get really bored.
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We are going to Beijing today, leaving in two hours. It is snowing in Beijing, which is good because I like snow. We're sure to see a bunch of interesting stuff, which I will document as much as batteries allow. The train ride will apparently take 8-10 hours, which means that either Beijing is very far away, or the train is very slow.
That is all, I'll be writing entries each day in Beijing, but I probably won't be able to upload them until I return, in about a week.









